I've been thinking about Liseberg a lot over the last week, trying to get my thoughts in order. It's safe to say that it's a park that captivated me, that intrigued me, that grabbed my attention with both hands and hasn't let it go since.
First things first: a colossal, whopping great AtmosFear-sized
thankyou to the park for absolutely spoiling us rotten. I've been on the receiving end of great generosity from Europa-Park, Alton Towers and Lightwater Valley, but never have I been made to feel so welcome at a park as I did at Liseberg. Three days of free entry, a goody bag with a beautiful book in it detailing the history of all the park's rollercoasters (though awkwardly skipping over the baffling demolition of the Bergbanan and the failure of HangOver), free entry to the horror walkthrough and access to Helix ERT. Wow. Thankyou so so much Liseberg. It won't be forgotten.
Like many old parks, especially those in urban centres, Liseberg is a mish-mash - a confusing, disjointed, overlapping patchwork that has grown and been amended hundreds of times over the last century. This is occasionally frustrating, but mostly delightful, as the imperfections infuse the park with real character that it is not possible to create in a master-planned theme park. The big hill that has to be traversed via several elevators, the river that runs through the heart of the park and the private flats that overlook the area around the rapids only add to the fun.
Photo by Danny
The built environment of the park is slightly ramshackle but charming, centring around a delightful and short 'main street' that runs from the majestic Lisebergbanan station down to the river. The buildings are traditional picture-postcard Scandinavian and may have been built yesterday for all I know, but they give the illusion of having been there since the park opened in 1923. Elsewhere, the vibe is more rustic and folksy, particularly around the rapids and the Jukebox flat ride. This doesn't work quite as well, and you can blame that on the multi-lane highways that thunder within metres of the park on two of its four sides.
The park are quite rightly noted for their food which is very good, even the fast food offerings at Comix, which substantially improves on the disappointingly high number of Burger King outposts dotted around the park. The themed restaurant under Lisebergbanan is very cute, and the food is simple but high quality Swedish cuisine (I had pork with a delicious creamy sauce). The smoked salmon salad I had at Stjärnornas Krog was top-notch, with a huge fillet of fish where I was expecting a couple of thin strips. It's pricey compared to anywhere else in Europe, but not absurdly so for Scandinavia. Relative to TusenFryd, food prices were very reasonable. Right, onto the rides.
Jukebox
A 'Polyp' flat-ride from Gerstlauer that I had only experienced before in disappointing form at Nigloland. This was a completely different experience: a crazy, disorientating, wild and out-of-control little ride with a great repertoire of movement and different sensations for a spinning flat. During quite long ride cycles, you rarely experience the exact same motion twice, making this very re-rideable. It's probably overlooked due to its size, but this is one of the best flats in Europe.
Flumeride
An excellent and substantial flume from Arrow, showing that they really had the advantage over their Mack counterparts in the 70s and 80s - this is a wise 1973 investment by Liseberg. The ride was the first in the park to utilise the mountain, which you seemingly climb up forever before reaching a long and winding section. Unlike the winding section on Alton's flume, this isn't tedious as there is a lot of close-quarters interaction with Lisebergbanan, Helix and the two S&S towers, as well as people to wave at on paths.
Unlike the Mack flumes where a conveyor belt lifts you over the drops, this doesn't bother with that nonsense, and the channel just falls away from you like a waterfall. This is inexplicably vastly more satisfying, as is the little extra surprise drop at the end of the run-off of the first drop. Intelligent pacing, a good length, plenty of interaction and a decently thrilling final drop - this is a great flume.
Kållerado
If only the same could be said about the park's other water ride, a very underwhelming Intamin rapids. They unfortunately go both ways, these rides, from excellent (Fjord Rafting, Congo River Rapids) to poor (Rumba Rapids, Splash Canyon) and this is closer to the latter. The theming is nice, very rustic with an impressive station, but the ride simply doesn't do anything - there are barely any rapids on it, and the ones that are there rarely send any water into the boat. Imaginative squirting effects and a water explosion at the end don't save this from being a duffer, unfortunately.
AtmosFear
Absolutely huge, with a beautiful view over the park/Gothenburg, but unfortunately this converted drop tower is pretty forceless, for reasons unknown. It shouldn't be because its enormous and the gondola is really heavy, but it is. It doesn't pack as much of a punch as Apocalypse, Detonator or even Höjdskräcken in the same park. But who cares when the night-time views are so beautiful? It's a shame it doesn't rotate - presumably this was too difficult with it being a conversion job. Lovely ambient music in the station, sounded almost like a Brian Eno composition.
Höjdskräcken / SpinRock / Uppswinget
Despite a slow start, SpinRock - Zamperla's answer to the KMG Afterburner - turned out to be actually quite good. It has a more artificial feel to it than the KMG version, but that's no bad thing. It takes a while to get going, but this is a very good small swing ride. The S&S drop tower Höjdskräcken is another surprise discovery - for an S&S tower it feels quite powerful, certainly more so than its bigger brother up the hill. I didn't bother with the twin shot tower Uppskjutet as they're always the same: a bit boring, and I've done Ice Blast too many times.
Uppswinget was pretty much identical to Rush, but had the advantage of its great positioning, swinging riders out precariously over the mountain. Whichever way you face this is good, as you're either swinging towards the excellent view or you see the ground drop away from you worryingly quickly. It's also kinda nifty how this ride is positioned inside Lisebergbanan's triple helix, though the way it has to be propped up on the sloping mountainside is a bit on the ugly side.
Hissningen / Hanghai
Two Zierer family freefall towers. Nowhere near as good settings as the one in the Arthur hall at EP. I like that they are both themed differently though (lighthouse and crane) - very pretty. The Hanghai is a Zamperla Disk-O, mercifully without the hump in the middle that ruins Chessington's. Nothing to set the world alight, but a perfectly pleasant ride. Good theming for this park.
Gasten Ghost Hotel
Shockingly for a park where rides are more stylised than themed, this up-charge haunted walkthrough is jawdroppingly well themed. It's set-up like a scare maze, but the actors barely do anything, so its much better to think of it as a walkthrough with an occasional actor - as a scaremaze, it's pants. But the interiors,
the interiors! I felt like I had walked onto a film set. In fact, the best comparison I can make to this is the 'promenade theatre' piece
The Drowned Man by Punchdrunk, which had very similar sets.
The intricacy is limitless, the detailing exquisite. Detail is an area where most temporary scare mazes fall short, but this has hundreds of almost imperceptible details in each of its numerous and varied scenes. It's so long as well. The water room (in which you navigate through a half-sunken room in a stricken ocean liner - think the final scenes of Titanic where Rose saves a tied-up Jack) is the
single best themed environment that I have ever experienced at a theme park. Not Disney, not Universal, but Liseberg. Well worth the money if you're visiting.
Rabalder / Stampbanan
Kids coasters, what is there to say? Stampbanen is absolutely tiny, but OK. Reasonably high thrill level given its microscopic size. Very smooth. Rabalder is a lot better, though that's mostly because of the surprise water effect for those sitting in the front row (great revenge against front row whores!). Prettily themed, in fact that whole 'Rabbit Land' area around these two rides is pretty.
Kanonen
Photo by Danny
Unfortunately, another duffer from Intamin, and an entirely redundant duffer now that Helix is a few hundred metres away. This coaster is simply too small and too slow. After a ho-hum launch, the ride absolutely
crawls over the top-hat - in a way it's laughable. Then, a pop of quality with a twisty airtime hill. The very tight loop is OK, but is merely an intro to the undoubted highlight of the ride: the very sharp right-left twist that has echoes of Maverick and iSpeed, that later (and better) Intamin fare.
The ride ends with a drawn out barrel roll that is just painful due to the restraints. So far, so dull. But this ride is utterly terrifying in half of its rows because if you are in the front of a car, the layout is so tight that at several points the back of the car in front bends towards you alarmingly, and it feels like it's about to smash your head like a watermelon. Really frightening and unpleasant - I wouldn't sit in the front of these cars again.